Gemma Champ | September 11, 2012
As ever, Donna Karan was inspired by New York City for her collection, but this time it was the light and glow of the sun on glass buildings, the water and the sky.
Soft, pale greys and oyster were used on lightly creased linen, paper cotton and canvas, in light-as-air skirts and dresses that were full and often high-waisted.
Karan contrasted those rough, natural textures with structured folds and cuts, on short jackets that cut diagonally across the body.
Stephen Jones provided headpieces in clear Lucite and for evening, fluid silks shivered across the body in petal-like layers and ruffles.
The final pieces used the simultaneously sculptural and ethereal qualities of silk gazar to create perfectly flattering, intelligently constructed dark-blue gowns with shell prints.